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THE FASHION INDUSTRY: WHERE IT STANDS IN 2022
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In 2022, the global fashion industry is once again finding its feet, after nearly two years of disruption. New digital frontiers provide a nexus for growth, which will be a key priority in the upcoming year. The industry faces several challenges even today, such as patchy demand and supply chain disruption.

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IMPACT OF THE PANDEMIC ON FASHION LABOURERS

As the world faced the pandemic in collective isolation, retailers shut down their doors all across the world and this led to a shift of the consumer base to the online market. While many have been rooting for an end to the overconsumption of clothes and propagation of fast fashion for many years preceding the pandemic, the unexpected halt in manufacturing had the

worst impacts on the vulnerable i.e. those at the lowest rung of the fashion supply chain. IndustriALL, a global trade union that works to give labourers around the world a platform to voice their concerns, said that millions of garment workers have lost their jobs with no financial or social safety nets to help them during this difficult time.

It is common practice across the industry to pay suppliers weeks or months after delivery, rather than an upfront payment. This means that suppliers pay from their own pocket for raw materials used to make products for different brands and recover this money once they receive their dues from the brand itself. Major fashion houses cancelled orders and halted payments for orders already placed, on which work had begun, at the onset of the pandemic,

paying no heed to the effect of their decision on labourers. Bloomberg reports that about 1,089 garment factories in Bangladesh have had orders cancelled worth roughly $1.5 billion due to the coronavirus outbreak. In these circumstances, factories had no choice but to lay off workers. Nazma Akter, the executive director of AWAJ, a grassroots labour rights NGO, explained, “These workers now don’t know how they will manage costs for food, rent and other necessities. They can’t even imagine what they’ll do if they or a family member needs medical treatment for COVID-19. The meagre income these workers earn is barely enough to cover their living costs, and as a result, they have little to no savings set aside to deal with a crisis such as this.”

Fashion, however, is not just produced in factories. Fashion is a craft often made in informal environments. Artisanal craft is the second-largest source of employment across developing nations. WIEGO, an organization focused on empowering the working poor, especially

women estimates that there are close to 2 billion informal workers around the world without basic labour, social and health protections who now face desperate economic circumstances due to the pandemic.

 

THE FASHION INDUSTRY: 2020-2021

The industry faced a 20% decline in revenues in 2019-20 as earnings before interest, taxes, and amortization (EBITA) margins declined by 3.4 percentage points to 6.8 percent. In 2020, 69 percent of companies were value destroyers, according to the readings of the McKinsey Global Fashion Index (MGFI), compared with 61 percent in 2019. Geographically, China was the standout performer over 2021 as its economy recovered much faster than other countries and 2022 is likely to see a growth in the industry driven by China and the USA.

 

WHERE THE FASHION INDUSTRY IS HEADED IN 2022

The fashion business will pick up momentum as consumers will unleash their pent up buying power. As the industry pivots towards growth, potential shortages of raw materials, products and resources may prove to be an obstacle due to rising shipping costs and choked supply chains, undermining efficiency. Hyper interactive digital environments and investment in e-commerce is becoming a long-term trend and companies are expected to seek fresh approaches to online shopping. As brands delve into the digital market with intense competition, they must work harder to protect their consumer base.

 

WHAT WE HAVE UNDERSTOOD SO FAR 

The crux of the conundrum faced by the fashion industry going into 2022 is that, with new opportunities and a chance to recover losses and establish a strong base for the future, there is little to no room for missteps as decision-makers must manage demand in both digital and offline setups and revive the supply chain. The last two years are testament to the fact that as economies recover, demand will follow suit and hence fashion houses only have to focus on retaining their consumer base, changing according to consumer needs and expanding growth.

 

References 

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Vindhya Venkatesh

Editor, Editorial Board

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By Vindhya Venkatesh

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